Felt-no-felt Knits

Felt-no-felt wovens


Casual and relaxed clothes benefit from using a casual and relaxed fabric. Wool, although well known for its clean and pristine looks, is versatile enough to take on a mottled or vintage appearance by virtue of its ability to felt. In this innovation, a special yarn has been created by randomly mixing untreated and anti-felt treated regions within the yarn to create a highly textured and mottled aspect after milling.

The Technology

Two technologies are available:
1. Fancy Spinning – untreated wool and easy-care treated wool worsted rovings are fed into the drafting zone of the spinning machine at the same time. Computer-controlled feed-rollers vary the proportion of each roving between 0% and 100% whilst maintaining the correct overall roving weight, and thus yarn count. After spinning the yarns contain randomly distributed regions of  wool with a propensity to shrink. During wet-finishing, a random distribution of felted and non-felted regions develops within the fabric which creates surface distortions, and hence a casual look.

2. Yarn Printing – A normal untreated wool yarn is printed with a polyurethane easy care polymer according to a randomised pattern using a special computer controlled continuous yarn pad-dyeing machine.

Features & Benefits

  • A range of effects from highly textured boiled looks through to subtle creasing can be created. (Depends on the overall proportion of treated to untreated areas in the yarn).
  • The yarns have random distribution of felting potential so are not prone to phasing (step-wise patterns of felting) in knitted garments  Colour can be included with the pad  treatment if desired
  • The feature is inherent in the yarn so the knitter, weaver or garment maker does not have to organise garment printing
  • The potential problem of felting is turned into a virtue
  • The effect is unique to animal fibres possessing a scale structure.