Woven

Knitted

Cockled

There are two types of creases, accidental and deliberate. Accidental creases are usually a problem but deliberate creases in a garment can create contemporary and casual aesthetics.  These effects are unusual for wool garments because they so readily shed creases. The approach of using memory-crease yarns, whilst effective, suffers from poor handle and the need for expensive yarns and is not recommended.  

 

The Technology

Two techniques are possible, depending on whether knit or woven, which create natural creases all over a garment or fabric giving a unique look to garments. The technique only works on materials made from fine-count worsted-spun yarns. 

For wovenwear, the effect can be created by eliminating the important greasy setting stage from the finishing routine for a plain weave woven fabric.  Subsequent open-width scouring with low tensions allows the yarns for relax spontaneously and to create micro-distortions similar to those found in knitwear suffering from loop-distortion.

For knitwear,the effect can be created by permitting a garment to cockle in the most severe and complete way. The technique involves breaking all the anti-cockle rules of knitting fine gauge worsted spun knitwear. A combination of wider than normal range of fibre diameters in the blend, yarn setting, loose knit density and overloaded wet finishing machines will create consistent cockling in worsted spun knitwear.

Features & Benefits

  • Contemporary creased garments
  • Each garment is unique
  • Creases are durable to machine washing
  • Soft handle of pure wool